GUCCI MENSWEAR Spring 2015
Gucci Spring 2015 was one of the most wearable collection we saw out there. And if you don't agree with me, wait and see the next collections! According to Frida Giannini, the Gucci man wears two faces: sartorial jet-setter and free rock n'roll spirit. So, why not bringing those faces together? Above deck, her "decadent admirals," as she called them, gloried in precision tailoring, like the grosgrain-trimmed evening coat over a silk waistcoat and pants. This season is all about paint-splashed denims, or a washed leather jacket paired with striped jeans. Not hard to see who was having more fun.
Gucci's quintessential modness always had something of the military about it, at least as such an idea was translated by sixties swingers. A Little Drummer Boy jacket? Every mod home should have one. By pushing that notion into the naval zone, Giannini gave herself the chance to offer something fresh and bright, white and navy striped. She mixed the precision of a uniform (laser cut for added sharpness) with something totally relaxed. The cross-body strap of a semi-duffel made like a military sash. Most of the shirts were pajama-like, long and collarless. Otherwise, the models wore scoop-neck tees, little striped kerchiefs, and casually rolled sailor pants. In fact, this collection worked best in the moments when a hint of sensuality undercut all the navy-and-white crispness.